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elasticdominik

elasticdominik

Città
Tulln, Austria
Altezza
182cm
Sesso
M
Registrato
19/02/2024
Ripetizioni inserite
185
Nell'ultimo anno
121
Info Statistiche Ripetizioni
Via
Grado
Note
Cagliostro
La Fortezza
6c+ 6c+.5
N.D.
Not freed yet. Complex crux sequence with cross-overs on small pockets.
Mente
La Fortezza
7b 7b.5
N.D.
Not done yet; Three bolts of 6b climbing, rest on a jug then the crux sequence with 2 small pockets but great footholds
Magari fossi Jolly
Pipperia
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
Steep technical climbing for 15m with small 2 finger pockets and tiny footholds; beautiful route!
Four
Pipperia
6b 6a+/6b
On-sight
The first 4 bolts are quite hard. Higher up fun, easier moves with a belly to mantle onto. Vivi did it too!
Idoli di pietra
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6c+ 6c+.5
4° giro
I have never felt so light in a hard route flowing through the crux because I knew every hold. Preparation pays off! The routes is separated in three parts: 1. 5 bolts of 6b-ish climbing with good holds 2. 3 bolts are crux section because it's slightly overhanging; the real crux is the the 3rd. 3. 2 bolts of technical slab climbing with good, but hidden holds
Histeria
Capo d'uomo
6a+ 6a+.5
2° giro
Lower part is hard to read and felt "brutto" where I could not find hold and slipped. Once the hold is found it's not too hard. The overhang is really good to climb and fund and route finishes by traversing into exposed terrain.
Fulmicotone (new)
Capo d'uomo
6c 6c+.5
2° giro
Topo at crag states 6c+ which seems fitting. Fulmicotone is another wonderful long route. The crux lies in the middle; first you climb up and meet Barabba and follow little corner up before you climb out right to crux; after clipping bolt at beginning of diedro, big shoulder move requires to find the hidden footholds, which almost threw me off, corner is a bit technical with interesting beta (vertical slot) but once you reach jug, you are safe. You can rest and then enjoy 10m of 6a+ to the top.
Il cacio sui gamberoni
Capo d'uomo
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Very long, new, varied route with mentally challenging finale for 5m on slippery slab using vertical edges of broken patina.
Stalattiti (old)
Capo d'uomo
5c+ 5c+.5
On-sight
Wonderful, long route with slippery, hard start, and fun diedro in the middle and great climbing on big holds in second half - it was so satisfying! Vivi led this first.
Spirito saraceno
Capo d'uomo
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Great climb! 5 stars ***** The crux is to get out of and over the little cave, afterwards diedro provides relaxation to rest arms and all the way to the top climbing becomes exposed, fun with big moves on mostly big holds! What a pleasure, I highly recommend it!
Barabba
Capo d'uomo
6c 6c.5
On-sight
Pumpy route on mostly good, in-cut holds with crux for me in slab section before the overhang. Overhang is passed by on the left, lay-backing vertical holds and then you traverse out over it to the right. Realization: as first route of the day, too hard - I barely managed the Flash
Gechi di Maremma L1
Capo d'uomo
Sconosciuto 6a.5
On-sight
Adventurous climb further down; this sector feels completely different than higher up and feels more like a multi-pitch climb then a sport climb. The guidebook states 6a which seems correct. First 10m are easy, chossy slab, than technical climbing on slab till first anchor; I recommend to go to next anchor approx. 8m higher where it is possible to use carabiner to get down.
Gechi di Maremma L2
Capo d'uomo
Sconosciuto 5c.5
On-sight
8m short extension of pitch 1. As a sport climb it makes sense to combine L1 and L2. L3 looks really good above! The start is technical on bare wall leading up to some easier climbing.
L'isola persa
Capo d'uomo
5c+ 5c+.5
On-sight
Better than expected! Route has a fun crux half way up which is a bit hard to figure out on the first go. Crux after traverse left to pinch, than up to hidden holds.
Il mare d'inverno
Capo d'uomo
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Nice route, first on easy jugs and tufas leading to technical slab-corner.
Omega
Capo d'uomo
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Great classic 6a! 28m climbing all vertical with a steep start, technical middle section and diedro higher up.
Fabrizio e la naja
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6b+ 6b+.5
Flash
with Beta from Marco I just managed to get to the top without falling. The crux is after the 3rd bolt where you have to go from the tufas on the right side on crimps to the left and up to a sloper. Also the top-out slab was tricky.
Darkman
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
5b+ 5c/5c+
On-sight
Beautiful climb with a slightly overhanging finish. It feels hard. That's not at 5b+ in my opinion.
Apapaia
Bassiano (Lo Scrigno)
5b 5b+/5c
On-sight
Good route, feels harder than 5b. Steep part at the top.
Per qualche fix in più
Bassiano (Lo Scrigno)
5c 5c+/6a
On-sight
Awkward vertical fissure which needs to be laybacked.
Scrigno
Bassiano (Lo Scrigno)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Varied route: two little overhangs followed by a slab
Placcati
Bassiano (Lo Scrigno)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Short slab with insecure holds.
Punji e il lama
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6c 6c.5
Flash
Beautiful vertical wall with pockets, some edges and a few jugs, and a vertical crack in the middle. I was 100% at my limit. Crux after 2nd bolt with big move to good edge from left-hand sidepull-undercling. Higher up my hand slipped and I hit a good hold on the right (tilted big flat hold) which saved me. The top out with hands so pumped, I was barely able to use them.
Ezechiele lupo crudele
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6a+ 6a+.7
On-sight
Lots of 2 finger pockets.
Ruggaemuffin
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Lots of pockets.
21 marzo L1+L2
Eremo di San Michele
6b 6a+/6b
On-sight
Technical, vertical climb on small but good holds.
Ahi l'occhio
Eremo di San Michele
6c 6c.2
On-sight
3m of hard climbing at the beginning and then balcone, balcone. There is a fun boulder problem entry on the left with big move - altough this is on lead done better only with a crashpad!
Il femore del drago
Eremo di San Michele
6c 6c.5
Flash
Physical climbing on tufas with spectacular crux with monstrous flake where you place perfect knee bars. I kind of broke the crux, place a heel hook high out left above my hand on sloper to go to crux. Just before the chain is a hidden pocket - don't miss it!
Un po' di sole
Eremo di San Michele
6c 6c.5
N.D.
Short route, hard crux. To be done including new extension.
Eli C.F.S. L1+L2
Eremo di San Michele
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
The bottom 6a is very technical and nice to climb, while extension 6b+ part is very hard to read and a thriller to onsight. I got totally to my limit!
Blu note L1
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
7a 7a.5
N.D.
Great climb until crux, I could not get over crux yet - open project of mine.
Big bug
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Nice climb.
Desert rose
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
Climbed on toprope right after coming down from Scorpio.
Scorpio
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Route is a bit hard to read but in general a great climb!
La morte di piccione
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
6c 6b+/6c
On-sight
Short route with short crux section. Being tall makes it much easier because smaller holds can be skipped and move from jug on the right to undercling roof is possible at once.
Starlight
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Powerful climbing on little overhangs with mostly big holds. Vivi climbed it too!
Brava Giulia L1
Sperlonga (Pilastro di Ponente)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Steep part on sharp holds after the slab. Vivi led it too.
Transfert
Moneta (Tetti Rossi, Paretone)
7a+ 7a+.5
N.D.
Imposing wall, crux seems to be in the middle the wide move from right hand undercling to big hole above.
La foresta pietrificata L1
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Hard part at the bottom with little overhang.
Geremia L2
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Nice slab.
Lex L1
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Short; fun route to warmup if connected with one of the pitches atop.
Io, manifesto
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
Short route with crux in the middle (vertical slot to undercling to pinch to jug).
Abbaida ba... nu purcu
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Continuous climbing on good holds and footholds, constantly getting steeper.
Arreu arreu
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6a+ 6a+.5
N.D.
A bit hard to read; towards the end route goes up left of vertical opening.
L'ombra dello scorpione L1
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6a+ 6a+.5
N.D.
Hardest part in the last metres to the chain when it gets steep.
Cappuccetto rotto
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Beautiful long 6a with technical slab part in the middle.
Re Artù
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Fun route with crux at the beginning (holds are very hard to find on this structured wall).
Licantropia
Norma (Placche Rosse)
7a 7a.7
6° giro
Finally I did it! What a fight. I climbed it without using the big ledge on the right and stayed on the vertical slab. Hard crux: between 3rd and 4th bolt to use small crimps and do move to the right.
Infrasettimanale
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Feels like a 6a to me. Reachy.
Giovani rampolli
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
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