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elasticdominik

Città
Tulln, Austria
Altezza
182cm
Sesso
M
Registrato
19/02/2024
Ripetizioni inserite
64
Nell'ultimo anno
64
Info Statistiche Ripetizioni
Via
Grado
Note
Graham il pirata
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Quick top Rope to get quickdraw from chain for some other climber.
Per i giovani per i vecchi e per il divertimento
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Small crimps at the top, nice route where you don't have too many holds as so often.
El primero
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Hard short crux on small holds with good hold high above, I almost fell. Otherwise super easy. Personally not my favourite 6a.
Bella hawaiana
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
DEFINETLY TO COME BACK TO! Climbed with 3 rests because sequence was unclear. Great route on vertical wall with small holes. Pillar on the left disregarded to not make climb too easy.
La vacca loca
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Leche a los cojones
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Corner with first three bolts spaced far apart; Vivi led it!
Isla de cocos
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
Not done in one go but probably won't try again. Some hard moves before the belly where you need to go right towards Taxi Driver and then get faraway hole. Bottom part climbs well.
Spigolo di ferrante
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
4b 4b.5
On-sight
L'Y di porfirio
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Nice route! The last bolts were steep.
Sorchilegio
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b 6b.5
2° giro
Weird blank slab at the start. Chalk marks indicate to start the right and layback up the corner but then it's impossible to traverse back left. What worked for me was to go up seemingly awful side pulls on the left side till the obvious good holds. A bit of "dancing" required with weird crossovers and foot swaps. The top part was really nice with steep jugs.
La sfinge var. sx.
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Really nice upper half, high up exposed fun climbing on good holds with little overhang.
Evoluzione
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
NOT FULLY DONE YET. First half bouldery with overhanging start, then great technical slab with limited friction and then I got lost. I on-sight climbed Evoluzione until the high crux of Memmo e Till (7a) which starts to the right of it because I did not know where my route went. The 7a's crux was hard and I could not do this one move and I was totally pumped and exhausted. What a crux - definitely one to come back to! I will come back and do Evoluzione next time and follow No BIG climbings great Youtube video showing where to go!
Timshel
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
NOT FULLY DONE YET. Good, technical and hard climbing. We climbed Via dei tre A following the crack till the top. Which is the upper half of Timshel.
Via dei tre A
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5b+ 5b+.5
On-sight
It was unclear that chains were to the right before crack gets hard. I climbed Via dei tre A following the crack till it fades out to the top. Which is the upper half of Timshel.
Memmo e Till L1 + L2
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
7a 7a.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. I climbed Evoluzione and without knowing continued on the upper half of Memmo e Till. The crux was hard and I could not do this one move and was totally pumped and exhausted. What a crux - definitely one to come back to!
Atreyu
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b+.5
On-sight
Hardest on-sight so far! I was so happy to do this. I didn't think I would get over the overhang without resting. The guidebook said 6b+ and I felt like I was onsighting 6b+ ;-) The first 10m are easier climbing till the overhang, the overhang is quite big and steep with good holds going through with a jug above the limit, lots of good foot holds. I pulled over the lip and was so pumped and happy to do it. I rested for a couple of minutes and delicately climbed the slab, careful not to fall. It turned out the slab was pretty easy, but I did not know before. For me a True Classic!
Sierra
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
A bit confusing to find the way but especially the upper half is a good climb. Good warm-up for me.
Braccio di ferro
Guadagnolo (Fascia Inferiore)
6a 6a.5
Flash
Re-Flash after doing it last year.
Blue byrd
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6b 6b+.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. Guidebook says 6b+ which seems fitting. I had to rest and figure out move at the roof which requires awkward highstepping while using two side pulls. Hard!
Balisto
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6c 6c.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. Spectacular route which feels higher up on slab very exposed! I could not climb from the second to the third quickdraw after the roof. There is a side pull and it is unclear to me how to do it.
Sade' L1
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Great climbing following natural features criss-crossing the wall up on VERY sharp holds!
Tipitaka
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a+ 6a/6a+
On-sight
Onsight on toprope because quickdraws had to be removed from Via Sade to the right.
Via del Matrullo
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Great route which is very long (25-30m) and has everything from a technical vertical part to a dihedral, to a chimney and finishes on pillar with some exposure. Vivi finished with this route on toprope.
Avalon
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
4c 5a.5
On-sight
Camelot dorme
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Nice route, very technical. Felt to me like a 6a.
Ginevra
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Fix it
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Vivi did it on top rope afterwards.
Drillo il coccodrillo L1
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
4a 4a.5
On-sight
Partaf (partenza a freddo)
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
4c 4c.5
On-sight
Surprisingly good for a 4c. Climb is all on rocks and there is no vegetation as so often.
La sibilla cubana
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b+.5
On-sight
Really cool 5b+ with steep little overhang to overcome.
Danzando sotto la luce
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a 6a+.5
On-sight
Hard crux part on small holds felt great to climb. I had to fight a bit.
Almytrà
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Malice
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a 6a/6a+
On-sight
Two hard moves at the start, otherwise easy.
Festa di compleanno
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a 6a+.5
On-sight
Very technical, quite hard on almost vertical "slab".
Strapazzami
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a+ 6a+.9
Flash
Hard technical slab with slightly overhanging vertical crux part on tiny crimps. I had to be strategic to flash this (after clip downclimbing from hard part to rest).
Betty blue
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Really nice, technical climb with a variety of climbing styles. First a tricky slab and then a hard vertical part on the two "crimps of hell" before a overhanging belly. There are lot of no-hand rests. I surprised myself with an on-sight and that boosted my confidence to try Licantrop (7a).
Spigolo del cactus
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b 5b.5
Flash
Wonderful varied climbing.
Diedro rosso
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Nice steep 5c which is quite physical for the first half. I bailed from the 5c to the left to do this one, since it was the first climb of the day.
Licantropia
Norma (Placche Rosse)
7a 7a.5
N.D.
17/03/24: 1st time in route, climbed it to my surprise with only a few rests to figure out moves. Two cruxes: one after ledge at the beginning and second to get over belly (small crimps to sidepull), higher up a lot of big flat holds.
Electric people
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a 6a+.5
Flash
Really size dependent crux. Quite impossible for smaller people.
Pretty woman
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a 6a+.5
2° giro
Hard start.
Biberon
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
Tricky deadpoint move after the steep part. Not yet climbed clean.
La tana del geco
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b+/5c 5c.5
Flash
El perma
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
Not yet clean climbed (and probably never will). Its two burly meters on sharp holds.
Variante tempo
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Sfumature di grigio
Sasso (Paretone)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Fun climb!
Il Grigio L1
Sasso (Paretone)
5a+ 5a+.5
On-sight
Wonderful 20m of face climbing!
KhoraKhané
Sasso (Paretone)
6b+ 6b+.3
On-sight
Route seems a bit easy for 6b+ altough I had to fight, it's a long fun climb up in a corner, than on an arete of lower difficulty (approx. 6a to 6a+) with one little roof to overcome after 25m.
Far finta di essere sani
Sasso (Paretone)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Spectacular airy climbing with a lot of different climbing styles! Really long (around 35m) with the ending unclear - you should go to chain of KhoraKane to the right.
Berlusconi fai il miracolo: sparisci! L1
Sasso (Paretone)
5c 6a.5
On-sight
Tricky start, not so easy for me!
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