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elasticdominik

elasticdominik

Città
Tulln, Austria
Altezza
182cm
Sesso
M
Registrato
19/02/2024
Ripetizioni inserite
138
Nell'ultimo anno
137
Info Statistiche Ripetizioni
Via
Grado
Note
Licantropia
Norma (Placche Rosse)
7a 7a.7
6° giro
Finally I did it! What a fight. I climbed it without using the big ledge on the right and stayed on the vertical slab. Hard crux: between 3rd and 4th bolt to use small crimps and do move to the right.
Infrasettimanale
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Feels like a 6a to me. Reachy.
Giovani rampolli
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
La pera
Norma (Placche Rosse)
4b 4b.5
On-sight
follows the cracks up.
El ciuccio
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6c 6c/6c+
2° giro
Wonderful route! Difficult start move, the first four bolts climbing on tufas and crimps slightly overhanging lead to the crux - a big move with the right hand to the crimp. I pumped it higher on the send. Then some big on good holds, a ledge to rest and two two-finger-pockets before the chain.
L'imperatore
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
Wonderful technical climbing with moves on small pockets with great rests in-between because it's a bit less then vertical. Crux for me was in the middle with 2 small crimps.
La vita l'è bela
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
5b 5b+.5
On-sight
Strapiombetti
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5c 6a.5
On-sight
Hard route with an overhang for the first three bolts after ledge. Hard to read but holds are generally good when found. I had a fight!
Diedro di Roberto
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
High up you climb inside a cactus to the top; last metres are hardest.
Tracchiellozza
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5c 5c+.5
On-sight
Great, technical route. Steep slab.
Variante
Norma (Placche Rosse)
5b+/5c 5c.5
On-sight
Fun 25m route with a lot of tricky corners.
Uscita numero uno
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
5c+ 6a.5
On-sight
Beautiful consistent climb, especially at the top. Feels more like a 6a (like the guidebook suggests).
Ponte verso il cielo
Bassiano (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6a+/6b
On-sight
Great vertical route on pockets with one ledge to rest in the middle. After the ledge there is a wide move to the left which is a bit out of line but the only logical sequence. Going directly from bolt to bolt is very hard and illogical.
L'arca di Noè
Bassiano (Fascia Superiore)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Wonderful consistent 6a. Highly recommended!
Suka
Bassiano (Fascia Superiore)
6a 6a/6a+
On-sight
Guidebook says 6a+. Route has a few hard moves in the upper half. "Bouldery".
Dopo lavoro
Bassiano (Fascia Superiore)
5c+ 5c.5
On-sight
Fun, steep climb on pockets. Guidebook says 5c. Route is definitely easier than Cecchino.
Cecchino
Bassiano (Fascia Superiore)
5c 5c+.5
On-sight
Fun, steep climb on pockets. Vivi mastered it on lead too. Guidebook says 5c+; route is definitely harder than Dopo lavoro to the right of this.
Curami
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
Good, consistent, technical climb. At first a slab, than vertical.
Lo scoglio dell'Araguna
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
7a 7a.5
2° giro
Second 7a! At first lunge from 2 small pockets up to jug, climb into miniature cave (no hand rest). Then the action begins: wide move to 3-finger pocket,and up through pockets to rest. Then intermediate climbing on rock less steep than vertical (with great footholds) until the last bolt, where there is a small sidepull 3-finger-pocket on which I moved fast past and clipped higher up when I suddenly arrived at the finish jug.
Nati con la camicia
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Wonderful steep (vertical), long route with two cruxes and full-on endurance climbing interjected with some jug-like holds. First crux at little overhang to get over it, second one when holds fade out and I only found a 2 finger pocket to crimp down hard to get to the next hold.
Ghostbuster
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
5c+ 6a/6a+
On-sight
Route is very hard and consistent (for grade 5c+). It felt like a hard 6a. The route is steep and moves are not always easy to figure out.
India L2
La Poltrona (Centrale)
5c 5a.5
On-sight
5a according to the guidebook seems realistic. The route is a slab with changing steepness with huge runouts of 5 to 8 metres for a total length of 50m. It was a whole adventure for Vivi and me. Extend the quickdraws ;-)
Quaggiù qualcuno ti ama
La Poltrona (Centrale)
6a+ 6a.5
On-sight
Instead of waiting for the route India to be free we went up this 6a (acc. the guidebook). 6a seems appropriate. Holds are very sharp, the wall is a 40m slab which keeps getting steeper till the anchor.
Stirami il frac Amelia
Cala Fuili (Spiaggia Ovest)
7a 7a.5
3° giro
FIRST 7a!!! I figured the moves out on the first go on Friday. On Saturday I came back with Vivi to try it properly but the sun was glaring down at us. I tried hard but didn't have my right foot up for the crux move and fell. Then on the second try, I got my foot up and went for the right side pull and caught it. After clipping the quickdraw I almost fell on the semi-hard part because my feet were not placed well and I struggled but managed. The route starts off a bulge (bolt 1-3), then has good holds and leads to a crack going up towards the right (bolt 4-6). Then you clip bolt 7 from the crack and traverse towards the bolt on a small foothold and a medium-sized crimp to get a vertical pocket. Adjust the feet high, grab the hard pinch with the left and go for the sidepull hold on the right! Crux done, route almost. Then it's a few moves to a big flat hold with a foot out on the left on some of the features.
Pippon d'oro
Cala Fuili (Spiaggia Ovest)
6b+ 6b+.3
On-sight
Wonderful route! The start is off a roof, stepping over the lip which leads after a few semi-hard moves to a rest. From there it traverses on small pockets to the left on a slab until a jug. Then it continues vertically up on mostly good holds leading to a big crevice. To get over this was the crux for me. Afterwards it's another 8 metres of a an easy slab to the chains.
Alcolica gazo
Cala Fuili (Ferry)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Vivi had a blast on it. Nice 20m route.
Banane al cioccolato
Cala Fuili (Ferry)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Un buono diedro! Anche Vivi l'ha arrampicata.
Zia Lillith
Cala Fuili (Spiaggia Est)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Nice climb, mostly a slab with features which has some vertical parts. Vivi did it too on lead.
Spigolo Fuili
Cala Fuili (Spiaggia Est)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Nice climb close to the edge, climbing it strictly upwards along the bolts feels like a 6a. Vivi climbed this on lead too.
Ti do io i nuts!
Cala Fuili (Spiaggia Est)
6b 6a+.9
2° giro
Guidebook says 6a+; The footholds are hard to find - that's why I had to rest once to figure the sequence out.
Scivola bella
S'atta Ruja
6b+ 6c+.5
N.D.
The crux at the top is a mystery to me. Until the last bolt, it is 6a+ climbing.
Sconvolt
S'atta Ruja
6b+ 6b+.5
Flash
Flash after Fabio did it. The first four bolts are hard, fun climbing, then it becomes super easy.
Ponente
S'atta Ruja
6a+ 6a.5
On-sight
Guidebook says 6a, which I agree with.
Raffaella
S'atta Ruja
5c 6a.5
Flash
Hard/weird move at the bottom. The line is a bit forced and not the most logical the bottom. Higher up it gets super easy and follows a logical crack.
Aberrante L1
Biddiriscottai
6c 6b+.5
Flash
Flash on top rope with very physical (bad) beta. Crux is after the overhang to reach holds on the right.
Vertebra
Biddiriscottai
6c+ 6c+.5
2° giro
Technical and bouldery with crux from the start until the 5th bolt. I climbed through the hard part with very big moves on the good holds and using all the chalked intermediates briefly. My first 6c+ in Italy and the first since 2021!
Lithium
Biddiriscottai
5b 5c.5
On-sight
Polished. Hard start and end - not particularly beautiful.
Paolino
Biddiriscottai
6b+ 6b/6b+
On-sight
Guidebook states 6b+ Route is not easy and top is a bit trickery to find the right (slippery) footholds.
Lo scivolo
Biddiriscottai
6a 6a.5
Flash
I climbed the route Bar Gulich Variante which starts to the right of this route and finishes at the top of this one. Really nice!
Senza nome 5
Buchi Arta
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
First 6b+ onsight! Route has a orange slight corner at the beginning and continues on small hold on vertical wall until a good rest at 15m height. Then another 5m to the chain.
Senza nome 18
Buchi Arta
6c 6c.5
N.D.
NOT FREE CLIMBED YET. 6c with one rest on onsight go. This route goes to the right of the orange corner up with no good rests. Crux is small sidepull crimp high up after which rest is possible. UNA BELLA VIA!
Senza nome 2 bis
Buchi Arta
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Hard 6a
Pensando a Francesca L2
Buchi Arta
6a+ 6a.5
On-sight
This route has only one length which is 6a acc. to Guidebook, which whom I agree. Fun crux on steep section with a good sidepull move.
Pur troppo facile
Buchi Arta
5b 5a.5
On-sight
Nice route in the lower 5th grade! Vivi led it too!
Soviet supremo
Ripa Majala
7a 7a.5
N.D.
NOT CLIMBED FREE (OR EVEN TO THE TOP) Fun climbing until the fifth bolt, I got stuck in the red dihedral higher up because there are no holds. I do not see a way to do this. Apparently you have to go right and then left again. I escaped over the route to the left.
La lunga marcia
Ripa Majala
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
NOT CLIMBED YET; I got stuck at the roof on the left where it becomes hard. I was not able to mantle up, maybe in cooler conditions it will happen.
Pista Ho Chi Minh
Ripa Majala
6a+ 6a+.5
2° giro
I couldn´t figure the crux move out on the first go. I did it very dynamically with a small foothold on the left, right on the edge - this makes it quite airy.
Fidel L2
Ripa Majala
6a 6a.5
2° giro
This route is insane. I highly recommend it to everyone who climbs 6a comfortably. Volcanic rock at its finest with massive three-dimensional features. Unfortunately most of the bolts are old and rusty. Climbing consists of two little roofs where you need to mantle up, then a wild three dimensional "nose feature" which works as a dihedral. I completed the climb using the last bolts of La lungia marcia which seemed like the logical line.
Un grammo di paura
Ripa Majala
6b 6b.5
On-sight
The beginning was hard because the sun just came around the corner and I could not see the holds. The second-to-last bolt was a bit hard to clip for me and I got really pumped but I surprised myself to climb it to the top. The holds are mostly really good.
Dose media giornaliera L1
Ripa Majala
5c 5c.5
2° giro
Rock a bit weathered, Short climb until the first chain.
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