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elasticdominik

elasticdominik

Città
Tulln, Austria
Altezza
182cm
Sesso
M
Registrato
19/02/2024
Ripetizioni inserite
269
Nell'ultimo anno
109
Info Statistiche Ripetizioni
Via
Grado
Note
Red sky
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
Aliquid
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
Vertical climbing on good holds with reachy crux (or small left-hand hold which tall people can skip)
Super Daytona L1
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Black sky
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6c 6c.5
4° giro
Do not forget the knee bar!
Vitale I°
Grotta dell'Arenauta
6c 6c.5
N.D.
Pioggia di luce
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Great 6a with cool setting on the exposed ledge where you start. Some difficulties to overcome on first slab and then to get past little roof.
Scusate i ritardi
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6c 6c.5
N.D.
Nice steep start; hard part after ledge on very smooth rock - some holds on the right should not be missed. Very delicate footwork needed.
Belfagor
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6c 6c.5
On-sight
Beautiful route with a lot of great rests. First, a few steep metres, than a big move on the slab to reach left sidepull followed by easy climbing to the ledge. Afterwards a very technical corner, where the edge of the pillar comes in handy followed by overhanging finale with big moves on big, but sharp holds.
L'ultimo delirio
Sperlonga (Fascia Superiore)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
Hard moves on small holds with really bad feet
Allocco patalocco
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
My preferred style, technical vertical climbing on good holds & edges with lots of possibilities to shake out the hands.
Spigolo Bonatti L7
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
3a 3a.1
On-sight
Walkable path in difficulty UIAA (I)
Spigolo Bonatti L5
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
3a 3a.5
On-sight
Easy finish, which we did with approach shoes.
Spigolo Bonatti L4
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Beautiful line going up with a positive angle on good holds and very consistent (we climbed the left bolted route, which seemed better).
Spigolo Bonatti L3
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
3c 3c.5
On-sight
Easy and relatively short to reach the beautiful pitch 4. This pitch could be done together with pitch 4.
Spigolo Bonatti L2
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
40m route going diagonally over slab with sharp, good holds to corner, then after corner you go right on beautiful 10m slab which has 2 lines. I tried the left, direct version, which seems very very hard due to micro edges. Climbing a bit right using the edge warrants the grade of 5c
Spigolo Bonatti L1
Capo d'uomo (Vie lunghe)
6a 6a+/6b
2° giro
There are two routes at the start; I climbed the right route which seems to be a new independent first pitch. This route was difficult to read and involved some technical little traverses back and forth. Some handholds broke but the climbing is splendid and once you know where the holds are, it is probably a 6a+
Comitato centrale
Ripa Majala
7b 7b.5
N.D.
Hard move over pancia at 5th bolt (shallow 3F pocket to bad slopers, which I cannot hold yet); higher up very hard to read on slopy holds on slab/vertical part.
Regina della notte
Ripa Majala
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
Great climbing on the blank face with some good holds. Crux high up: big moves from undercling to top.
Adamo
La Fortezza
6c 6c.5
N.D.
Very fingery and hard to find the good holds on the send go. I have to come back for the R.P.
Negli occhi
La Fortezza
6b 6b.5
N.D.
Steep beginning (first 3 or 4 bolts) are hard. I read sequence wrong and went up to far on the left and had to rest to figure out traverse. It is better to tackle diedro straight ahead in line of bolts.
Le scelte
La Fortezza
6b 6a+.5
On-sight
Straight forward climbing with crux half-way up.
Giovanni il Verga L3
Rocca Canterano (Pentema di San Michele)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Nice finish on good holds, a lot of cracks although I somehow ended up climbing into the route on the left. I did not see where the intended line was going.
Giovanni il Verga L2
Rocca Canterano (Pentema di San Michele)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
I should have watched more wideboyz! Almost onsight but then I grabbed the last quickdraw to avoid fall with rope behind the legs.. The route has a steep start on good holds and the upper half is a slab with cracks with barely any footholds. Very technical!
Giovanni il Verga L1
Rocca Canterano (Pentema di San Michele)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Nice route, the second half is a physical layback pulling to the right. The finish to the ledge is climbed a bit on the left, otherwise it will be hard.
Peppa il cinghiale (var alta)
Rocca Canterano (Pentema Roscia)
6b+ 6b+.5
On-sight
While the whole route is not easy. The difficulty lies in the last two bolts. Penultimate bolt: move to undercling on the left tricky. Ultimate bolt: Handholds are bad slopers which I had to use to adjust feet (for me the crux).
Diagonalia (var alta)
Rocca Canterano (Pentema Roscia)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Great route (circa 33m). Start in mossy corner, than steep little pillar, than on the slab and up the steep pillar on the right. Afterwards there is a good rest and it is a slab with vertical cracks till the top.
Senza mani
Rocca Canterano (Pentema Roscia)
4c 4c.5
On-sight
Nice route, used as approach to Peppa il cinghiale (6b+)
Balle spaziali
Bassiano (Scoglio dell'Araguna)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
hard crux on small holds
C'era una volta
Eremo di San Michele
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
First two thirds are easy climbing (5c) until the last steeper third where it gets steep and pumpy on good holds.
Cooperando
Eremo di San Michele
6c+ 6c.5
2° giro
6c seems to make the most sense, especially if you are tall and you can tackle the long moves without intermediates. Technical climbing the first 5 bolts with crux betw. 3rd and 5th bolt (wide moves on good holds with good feet, crux was to shift weight to the right when going from horizontal slot for the left hand to the hold far out on the right with the right hand).
Fully Booked
Eremo di San Michele
5b+ 5c/5c+
On-sight
Fun route, with powerful crux to get up bulge.
Mazzatosta L1
Poggio Catino (Il muro dell'educazione)
6a+/6b 6b.5
On-sight
Big moves on mostly big holds - really nice! Great 6b.
Fantastico
Poggio Catino (Il muro dell'educazione)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Le recchie
Poggio Catino (Il muro dell'educazione)
6a+/6b 6a+/6b
N.D.
Crux close to the top. Hard to read how to traverse over overhang back to the left.
Mazzatosta L2
Poggio Catino (Il muro dell'educazione)
6a+ 6b.5
2° giro
The corner is a bit hard to read an physical if not done the proper (easier) way. The last move to the chain is quite committing on a high left foot.
Aracnofobia
Arapietra
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
A bit hard to read on the flash go
Porno Piccolo
Arapietra
6a 6a+.5
N.D.
Duro e strabiombante
Entomofobia
Arapietra
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Una bella via. Prima è un diedro, dopo un movimento lontano a destra che non è facile.
Senza nome 1
Montebello di Bertona (Giuseppina)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Senza nome 3
Montebello di Bertona (Giuseppina)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Senza nome 4
Montebello di Bertona (Giuseppina)
5c 6a.5
On-sight
Hard at the last two, I think.
From fear to eternity
Celenza sul Trigno (Morgia delle lame)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
Though first 6m. Really satisfying.
S.D.M.
Celenza sul Trigno (Morgia delle lame)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
Hard first half, than easier crack less than vertical
Gaia
Pietrabbondante (Falesia di Pino)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
Really hard first two moves from the ground on bad holds. Than quite athletic.
Nonna Pina
Pietrabbondante (Falesia di Pino)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
Steep start with some holds drilled before you get onto slab (ca. 5m height), afterwards easy.
Nonno Marcello
Pietrabbondante (Falesia di Pino)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Steep start
Pino la rana
Pretara (Il Sasso del Ghiro)
6b 6b/6b+
2° giro
Very steep start and physical moves till the fourth and last bolt.
Swish
Pretara (Il Sasso del Ghiro)
5c 5c.5
N.D.
The steepest 5c on that wall!
Emmental
Pretara (Il Sasso del Ghiro)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Steep and fun!
Gruviera
Pretara (Il Sasso del Ghiro)
6a+ 6a+.5
On-sight
Not so easy to figure out the holds on the first try.
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