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elasticdominik

Città
Tulln, Austria
Altezza
182cm
Sesso
M
Registrato
19/02/2024
Ripetizioni inserite
78
Nell'ultimo anno
78
Info Statistiche Ripetizioni
Via
Grado
Note
Il regno del ragno
Fraioli
5c+ 5c+.5
On-sight
A few hard moves in slight overhang at the top. Michi did it twice.
Scatta la bevanda
Fraioli
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Really proud to have on-sighted this. There are many chalked holes and it was not easy to figure out the best way but it worked out. Footholds were tiny on the left side but visible.
Stump
Fraioli
6c 6c.5
2° giro
I am really happy to send this fantastic route up on pockets and jugs. The whole face hangs two meters over and it was a fight to do it. Especially tricky was to figure out the beta. There is a good rest at the 5th bolt and the crux was at the sixth - going from 2 finger pockets with both hands high, using technical foot holds and a toe hook to reach the saving jug on the left.
(La) Lucanica / Liuganiga
Fraioli
5c+ 5c+.5
On-sight
Fun route with steep parts on big holes for 2 bolts. Crux is a big move to the left and then a I solved it with side-pull opposed foot move high up bit there are many holds and options.
Kick ass!
Fraioli
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Good 25m climb first in a corner, then continues on the slab to the left of it. While Michi climbed, a mad cane memmerino visited me and threatened to eat me
Prurito
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Climb on the arete up to chain after 20m. Continues on Via La Lieta sorpresa 6a+
Pilastro Giancarlo
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
DONE WITH ONE BREAK (because beta was unclear that I actually had to use the good holds to the right on the rightmost part). I will redpoint this next time. Delicate slab at first third, second third low angle with no hand-rest, third third is pumpy traverse to the left and up on bigger holds.
Hantayo
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
NOT CLIMBED FREE YET. I had to figure out beta twice on lower part and once on the upper slab. Really nice route and one to come back to!
La lieta sorpresa L2
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6a+/6b 6a+/6b
On-sight
Super short extension of Prurito 6a. Quite tricky climbing on smooth limestone face where you need to look for holds closely. Got me pumped.
Paola
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Great 30+ m 5b with dihedral at the bottom, slab at the top!
La storia infinita
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6a+ 6a+.5
Flash
A great route with big holds and a steep crux. I climbed the route twice. The first time I tackled the overhang on the right side of the arete and really had to fight, especially for the clip. The second time I completely avoided this on the left side which was much easier but more technical.
Spigolone L1
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
2nd onsight after last year. Vivi led it too! What a beautiful 5b on a structured slab with an indefinite possibility of hand and foot holds.
Via dei Tre
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Fun, 35m 5c with steep little traverse under the roof to the left at the start with bad feet to fun slab to exposed steep finish. Highly recommended!
Luce della notte
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b/6b+
N.D.
26/05/2024: NOT YET CLEAN CLIMBED I did the route twice, second time to clean it so decided to try redpoint go but fell in the crux at the fourth bolt where I forgot the beta (good handhold on the left). The route is at the beginnig quite hard, than an easy slab with a steep finish on good holds. It was great and a bit intimitating to climb on such a high face again.
Graham il pirata
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Quick top Rope to get quickdraw from chain for some other climber.
Leche a los cojones
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Corner with first three bolts spaced far apart; Vivi led it!
El primero
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
Hard short crux on small holds with good hold high above, I almost fell. Otherwise super easy. Personally not my favourite 6a.
Per i giovani per i vecchi e per il divertimento
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Small crimps at the top, nice route where you don't have too many holds as so often.
La vacca loca
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Bella hawaiana
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
DEFINETLY TO COME BACK TO! Climbed with 3 rests because sequence was unclear. Great route on vertical wall with small holes. Pillar on the left disregarded to not make climb too easy.
Isla de cocos
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
Not done in one go but probably won't try again. Some hard moves before the belly where you need to go right towards Taxi Driver and then get faraway hole. Bottom part climbs well.
Spigolo di ferrante
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
4b 4b.5
On-sight
L'Y di porfirio
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Nice route! The last bolts were steep.
Sorchilegio
Sperlonga (Il Castello Invisibile)
6b 6b.5
2° giro
Weird blank slab at the start. Chalk marks indicate to start the right and layback up the corner but then it's impossible to traverse back left. What worked for me was to go up seemingly awful side pulls on the left side till the obvious good holds. A bit of "dancing" required with weird crossovers and foot swaps. The top part was really nice with steep jugs.
Timshel
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b.5
N.D.
NOT FULLY DONE YET. Good, technical and hard climbing. We climbed Via dei tre A following the crack till the top. Which is the upper half of Timshel.
Evoluzione
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b+ 6b+.5
N.D.
26/05/2024: Climbed the line with the knowledge where to finish ;) I fell at the last bolt on the traverse to the chains on the right around the pillar - I didn't find the heelhook for the awkward move past the pillar 14/04/2024: NOT FULLY DONE YET. First half bouldery with overhanging start, then great technical slab with limited friction and then I got lost. I on-sight climbed Evoluzione until the high crux of Memmo e Till (7a) which starts to the right of it because I did not know where my route went. The 7a's crux was hard and I could not do this one move and I was totally pumped and exhausted. What a crux - definitely one to come back to! I will come back and do Evoluzione next time and follow No BIG climbings great Youtube video showing where to go!
Via dei tre A
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5b+ 5b+.5
On-sight
It was unclear that chains were to the right before crack gets hard. I climbed Via dei tre A following the crack till it fades out to the top. Which is the upper half of Timshel.
La sfinge var. sx.
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Really nice upper half, high up exposed fun climbing on good holds with little overhang.
Braccio di ferro
Guadagnolo (Fascia Inferiore)
6a 6a.5
Flash
Re-Flash after doing it last year.
Sierra 6
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6a 6a.5
On-sight
A bit confusing to find the way but especially the upper half is a good climb. Good warm-up for me.
Atreyu
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
6b 6b+.5
On-sight
Hardest on-sight so far! I was so happy to do this. I didn't think I would get over the overhang without resting. The guidebook said 6b+ and I felt like I was onsighting 6b+ ;-) The first 10m are easier climbing till the overhang, the overhang is quite big and steep with good holds going through with a jug above the limit, lots of good foot holds. I pulled over the lip and was so pumped and happy to do it. I rested for a couple of minutes and delicately climbed the slab, careful not to fall. It turned out the slab was pretty easy, but I did not know before. For me a True Classic!
Memmo e Till L1 + L2
Guadagnolo (Fascia Superiore)
7a 7a.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. I climbed Evoluzione and without knowing continued on the upper half of Memmo e Till. The crux was hard and I could not do this one move and was totally pumped and exhausted. What a crux - definitely one to come back to!
Camelot dorme
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Nice route, very technical. Felt to me like a 6a.
Avalon
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
4c 5a.5
On-sight
Via del Matrullo
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Great route which is very long (25-30m) and has everything from a technical vertical part to a dihedral, to a chimney and finishes on pillar with some exposure. Vivi finished with this route on toprope.
Tipitaka
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a+ 6a/6a+
On-sight
Onsight on toprope because quickdraws had to be removed from Via Sade to the right.
Sade' L1
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5c 5c.5
On-sight
Great climbing following natural features criss-crossing the wall up on VERY sharp holds!
Balisto
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6c 6c.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. Spectacular route which feels higher up on slab very exposed! I could not climb from the second to the third quickdraw after the roof. There is a side pull and it is unclear to me how to do it.
Blue byrd
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
6b 6b+.5
N.D.
NOT DONE YET. Guidebook says 6b+ which seems fitting. I had to rest and figure out move at the roof which requires awkward highstepping while using two side pulls. Hard!
Ginevra
Sperlonga (Avancorpo di Destra)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Drillo il coccodrillo L1
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
4a 4a.5
On-sight
Partaf (partenza a freddo)
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
4c 4c.5
On-sight
Surprisingly good for a 4c. Climb is all on rocks and there is no vegetation as so often.
La sibilla cubana
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b+.5
On-sight
Really cool 5b+ with steep little overhang to overcome.
Danzando sotto la luce
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a 6a+.5
On-sight
Hard crux part on small holds felt great to climb. I had to fight a bit.
Fix it
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5a 5a.5
On-sight
Vivi did it on top rope afterwards.
Malice
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
6a 6a/6a+
On-sight
Two hard moves at the start, otherwise easy.
Almytrà
Moneta (Avancorpo di Destra)
5b 5b.5
On-sight
Festa di compleanno
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6a 6a+.5
On-sight
Very technical, quite hard on almost vertical "slab".
Betty blue
Norma (Placche Rosse)
6b 6b.5
On-sight
Really nice, technical climb with a variety of climbing styles. First a tricky slab and then a hard vertical part on the two "crimps of hell" before a overhanging belly. There are lot of no-hand rests. I surprised myself with an on-sight and that boosted my confidence to try Licantrop (7a).
Licantropia
Norma (Placche Rosse)
7a 7a.5
N.D.
17/03/24: 1st time in route, climbed it to my surprise with only a few rests to figure out moves. Two cruxes: one after ledge at the beginning and second to get over belly (small crimps to sidepull), higher up a lot of big flat holds.
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